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How to specify a custom chandelier: the 7 numbers you need before you ask for a price

2026-09-18 · 6 min read

Most first enquiries stall because one number is missing. Here is the short list that lets a factory quote you properly on the first reply — and the two numbers people most often get wrong.


If you have ever sent a photo to a lighting factory and got back “what size do you need?” instead of a price, this is why. A custom fixture is engineered, not picked off a shelf, and the engineering needs numbers before the quotation can be real. Get these seven down and the first reply you receive will be a quotation rather than a question.

1. Ceiling height, measured at the fixture

Not the floor-to-ceiling figure on the plan — the actual clear height where the fixture hangs, after the ceiling finish, after any beam or duct box. On a sloped or coffered ceiling this is different at every point, so measure where the fixture centreline will land.

2. The footprint you want the fixture to occupy

Diameter for a round piece, length × width for a linear or rectangular one. If you are not sure, send the room dimensions instead and say so — a factory that builds these regularly can propose a size. What has to be exact is the clearance: the gap between the fixture and the surrounding walls, balustrades or furniture.

The two numbers people get wrong most often: ceiling height measured before the ceiling is finished, and the door or lift opening the piece has to travel through. Both are cheap to check now and expensive to discover later.

3. The drop — and where the light must land

The drop is the distance from ceiling to the bottom of the fixture. Do not pick this in isolation: on a stairwell, the drop is set by the sightline from the floor below. On a dining table, it is usually dictated by how the light falls on the table surface rather than the ceiling.

4. Reference image, sketch or drawing

Anything visual. A phone photo of a similar piece, a mood-board image, a hand sketch with dimensions. Your reference does not need to be a technical drawing; it needs to communicate the look you are after. Send two or three if the direction is between ideas.

5. Material and finish direction

Frame metal (steel, brass, aluminium), shade or decorative material (glass, crystal, acrylic, fabric, resin, marble), and the finish. If you have a RAL or Pantone code, send it. If you do not, describe it in words — “brushed brass, not polished” is genuinely useful.

6. Quantity, destination and required date

One piece or twelve? Which country is it going to? When does it need to be on site? The destination drives voltage, plug and certification; the date drives whether what you are asking for is realistic. A factory that respects you will say “that date is not achievable” rather than accept the order and slip it.

7. Who is installing it

This sounds like a detail and is not. If your own contractor is installing, the drawing needs to be readable by a general electrician. If nobody has been appointed yet, say so — a good factory will build in more modularity and supply a 1:1 rigging drawing.

What you do not need

You do not need a CAD file, a structural calculation or a final decision on finish. Those come after the first exchange, and on custom work the drawing stage is normally part of the process rather than something you have to arrive with. “I have a photo and a ceiling height” is a perfectly good starting point.

What happens after you send it

The normal sequence is: feasibility and an itemised quotation, then a scaled drawing for approval, then a prototype or representative sample, then production. If a supplier asks for full payment before you have approved a drawing, that is not a custom process — it is a gamble. Walk away.

See it built

Films from our own workshop and from installed projects — the same process your order goes through.

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Questions

Questions buyers ask before sending a chandelier drawing

What do I need to send for a quotation?
Seven things: overall dimensions and the ceiling height; a photo, render or sketch of the look; the material or finish, or a RAL or Pantone code; the quantity; the target market; the date you need it; and the certification your customer or customs require. Voltage and dimming for the destination country if it is not obvious. A drawing is helpful but not required — a photo and a measurement is enough to start, and we will come back with a scaled drawing for approval.
How accurate do my dimensions need to be?
Accurate enough that we can tell whether the piece is buildable. If you are within 10% on the ceiling height, that is enough for a first quotation. Where a dimension is critical — a spiral stair, a low ceiling, a doorway to pass through — measure that one twice and tell us it is critical. We would rather ask for a better measurement than build a fixture that does not clear the opening.
What is the difference between a chandelier and a pendant light?
A pendant is a single light on a cord or rod, simpler in form and much easier to install. A chandelier has multiple arms or drops from a central body, so it is heavier, needs a stronger fixing, and takes longer to put up. Practically: pendants go over a table, a bedside or a kitchen island; chandeliers go where the room needs a centrepiece and where there is enough ceiling height to hang one. If the ceiling is under about 2.6 m, a pendant is usually the better answer — and we will tell you so rather than sell you a chandelier that crowds the room.
How many chandeliers do I need for a large space?
Fewer than most people expect. A large space usually needs one statement piece rather than three medium ones, because the eye reads a cluster of small chandeliers as clutter. The decision is driven by the ceiling: a piece that fills the space at a comfortable height works, and adding a second one only makes sense if the space is genuinely enormous or if the ceiling structure gives you two distinct fixing points. Tell us the room dimensions and the ceiling height, and we will tell you honestly how many you need.
Can you copy a fixture I have seen in a hotel or restaurant?
Often, yes, and we will tell you honestly what it involves. If the piece is a generic form, we can build something in the same language. If it is a distinctive design, the original designer may hold rights, and we will say that rather than let you find out at customs. What we will not do is counterfeit a branded product or pass someone else’s design off as original — that ends badly for importers, not just for us.
How long does the first sample take, and what does it cost?
15–20 days from the approved drawing, and the cost is quoted up front. A sample is a hand-made one-off rather than a production-line item, so it takes real workshop time. Where a production order follows, the sample cost is normally credited against it. If the piece involves hand-blown glass, custom plating or an unusual frame, we will quote a longer sample date at the start rather than promise a week and hand you something you cannot approve.
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